Right: A fresh picked nutmeg, with red mace net, interior nut and husk
Having worked our way down the western shore of Grenada, we did not find a suitable anchorage for us until we were on the outskirts of historic St. George's with its' huge fort above the harbor. We anchored here two nights, motoring into the yacht club and marina for gas and provisions.
We all had a need for a hamburger it seemed. And French fries.
We found Andy and Susan on their boat, Maggie May; a beautiful made to order Norwegian yacht that hailed from Indianapolis, Indiana. We joined up and went over to the marina's beautiful open air restaurant and bar, having cold drinks and cheeseburgers in paradise…though Joel suddenly changed to a fish sandwich.
Having diligently trying to stick to healthy, less sinful and dissipated ways, I decided to go for it and have a bacon cheeseburger with a split of fries. Delicious. But 24 hours later I was just getting my legs back under me having paid the price of major indigestion from too much fat too soon. As everyone enjoyed their lunch the next day, I eked down a bowl of Callaloo Soup and hoped it made things right with my gall bladder.
Above: We arrive in Grendada
We then struck out for Hog Island on the south eastern shore of Grenada.
Hog Island is a major location in Ann Vanderhoof's book An Embarrassment of Mangoes. This
book is required reading by Sandi when on board, especially since it is set in Grenada primarily and is the story of two Canadians who decide to take 2 years and sail from Toronto to the
Caribbean and back in their 42 foot sailing yacht Receta. An excellent choice of reading, Ann's book brings you into her and her husband's life and journey which forever changed their lives. Along the way you learn some interesting recipes as well.
Be sure to check out Ann's new book, Spice Necklace, which just came out. I have read the book, and I have to say it is wonderful. If you love the Caribbean, and enjoy living vicariously, then read Ann's new book. Check out the website here.
As we put on a genuine tragic comedy of anchoring in mud, we see the sailboat next to our chosen anchorage enjoying the cocktail/pre-dinner show. Sure our anchor is set, I start watching the stern to make sure we are not slipping towards the rocky shore nearby.
The marine band radio comes on advising that Rosetta is calling to advise Hanco we are slipping and I am gauging that our stern is inching closer to the shore as well.
Back into action we raise the anchor and put on an even more Laurel and Hardy or Martin and Lewis…better yet Three Stooges (Joel was in the anchor chain room so he doesn't count) show of anchoring in mud amongst the sailboats yet again. Next to us, a young Grenadian fisherman is visiting the sailboat and yells "drop it, drop it now". John drops the anchor but it doesn't satisfy him, so he puts a red buoy on with a rope which I then screw up throwing out because I wanted to come home with all my fingers.
We try again and while doing that the Gameboy boat control stops working and Sandi has no boat control, under power and the yacht next to us is beyond close, we can see if it has chips in its paint. We then have a fire drill of sorts, aka cluster frolic, in front of everyone while control is restored at the helm due to a switch issue. Whew.
Right: Recetta, our neighbors, Hog Island behind
The anchor is dropped, John dives into murky water here, and assures himself the anchor is set and now he can sleep that night.
While we are doing this Sandi yells "hello" to Steve and Ann on the next boat which is NOT Rosetta, but Receta and the neighbors are Ann Vanderhoof and her husband Steve Manley with Dwight, the fisherman from her books. So, not only are the neighbors watching, the neighbors are writers and friends of Sandi and John and local celebrities. Oh well. And yes, they had a grand time watching our display of comedic yachting, but all the while knowing they have put on similar displays.
Another evening of cocktails and filet mignon on the fantail; another night of blissful sleep; someone has to do this.
Left: The marina at Clark's Court Bay
Today we move to the marina of Clark's Court Marina to tie up in preparation for our return home, some touring as in a rum distillery up the road and the spice market.
Clark's Court Bay and the marina located there are below the parallel that insurance companies deem acceptable for boats to hang out in and still be covered by insurance if a hurricane strikes. The last one, Ivan, was a cat 5 that laid waste to Grenada, damaging about 90% of the island's homes and decimating the nutmeg and banana crops. You don't say "Hurricane Ivan" here, you just say "Ivan". The previous hurricane to come this low was Janet in 1955. Given the aftermath of Ivan, the name was retired out of respect to the dead and the history it left in its wake.
Right: Dry land allows for a much needed haircut for John and Sandi can do the job
Above Clark's Court Bay is the Clark's Court Bay Distillery which, of course, we had to visit and tour. And taste too. The factory doesn't do cane anymore, they obtain juice and make the rum and molasses. They buy cane juice (much like wineries buy grape juice) all over the Caribbean. The sugar cane crop was also destroyed when Ivan came through.
Sandi and I took a tour through the spice and town market. We went through the vendors in the covered part of the market where dozens of spice dealers hawk their goods. Many of the same spices and sauces are sold in the different stands and I kept wondering what the difference would be other than price or approach. There really is none. The only difference would be in the design maybe of a spice necklace. But, one bag of spices was the same regardless of the stand or even if it was in the downtown area or the outlying areas.
Left and right: Shopping in St. George's street market
Staying in a marina is way different than being out on your own in the middle of say, Tobago Cays or the Virgin Islands at anchor. You have neighbors and you can't just jump into the water because it is not all that desirable to be honest. You do have lots of water, lots of power and a bar a stone's throw away. You can get your land legs back quick too.
Wednesday night was Burger night so Sandi decided to have a little pre-burger cocktail soiree on board HANCO to warm up for the burgers. What started as about 10 people grew to about 50 or so potential guests. That's a lot of folks on a boat, even a 62 foot Hatteras with a good sized fantail. We were ice scavengers, makers, hors de oeuvres queens and house cleaners. The party was marvelous and a good time was had by all. By the end of burgers, and dancing, as well as more drinking of adult beverages, a good time was really had by all.
Ann and Steve came over for the party and I asked for her autograph for my copy of Mangos, but, since I don't read paper books, but use a Kindle, I found a Sharpie and she did her first signing of a Kindle on the back side. Pretty cool. So is she and so is Steve. What a pair.
Left: Joel at the fort above St. George
One problem with the rum factory being so close to the marina is not the temptation; it is the smell of the molasses residue being put into the river, which then flows down to the cove. It eventually drove John to move the boat back to the marina at St. George.
We all took another day tour which was supposed to be done by 1 pm or so, but stretched longer. I think we were kidnapped by monkeys. Really.
Our guide took us all over Grenada. We learned more about nutmeg than we ever thoughts possible. We went to the top of the island and though we failed to bring bananas, the monkey's made an appearance when another tour guide brought little sweet bananas. They flew out of the trees, like, well, monkeys. We toured the large fort that stands over the island. I can't imagine building this thing, let alone being assigned here in centuries past. It would have a been a serious hike but what a fantastic view.
Sandi and I toured a nutmeg processing plant while the guys waited in the van's A/C and watched the world go by. A trip through a plant like this truly makes you appreciate your college education. The ladies pictured here make $8 for shelling out a large bag of nutmeg seeds. If you are fast, you might make $40 a day. So don't gripe about the price of nutmeg or mace. Ever.
Below: Ladies shell and clean up nutmeg and sing to occupy themselves
Grenada was truly devastated by Ivan. The nutmeg crop will take years to recover as will the clove and limes. It is green and getting lush, but after the 'cane it was stripped bare. It is a testament to their resiliency how well they recovered.
All too soon it was time to pack up and leave the boat, John and Sandi and Grenada. We had a truly marvelous time and are forever thankful that we have such good, warm and comfortable friends as them. We have more new friends from all over the world and have become dry land boaters without a boat or OPB's (other people's boats). HANCO will spend the 'cane season in Grenada getting some repairs, refurbishment and sprucing up. We can't wait for our next adventure.
Right: A street vendor sells fresh roasted corn on the cob
I highly recommend a visit to Grenada. It is bu s y, high end and yet, laid back and comfortable.
Next, I'll take you with Marley and me (sounds like a book potential, maybe a movie) to Ashland, Oregon for the Oregon Shakespeare Festival and hanging out for the Fourth of July, including Ashland's hometown, hard to beat parade. Stay tuned, it will be a matter of days….






















